Mountain bike basics: find the right instructor—and pedal to two-wheeled Nirvana - Travel Getting Started
Sunset, by Lisa Taggart

No doubt you have some good excuses for missing the mountain-biking bandwagon. You were too busy training for a marathon. You're not so stable on pavement in the  first place--much less on dirt.

Early in his marriage, my husband's brother wanted to teach his new bride the joys of biking off-road. At a tricky point in the trail, the couple stalled. Their friends rode ahead. Behind them they heard voices, increasingly elevated, that culminated in someone shouting very loudly, "What do you want from me?!"

And the group had a long ride home in silence.

The lesson of the story is that finding the right teacher is key. Probably you should not be related, through blood or marriage, to your instructor. Taking a skills clinic can jump-start your mountain-biking education by compressing a lot of information into one or a few days.

Former mountain-bike national champion Jacquie Phelan teaches clinics for women at a facility in Fairfax, California, where the sport got its start a couple of decades ago. She says she first teaches newbies the terminology. When people can talk about something, Phelan says, they are better prepared to do it. Curb-hopping, rear-tire skidding, and dabs-on-the-fly are all part of her one-day course.

The exercises help riders get comfortable on their bikes. "I unstick them from their attachment to the saddle," Phelan says. Unlike a road biker, a mountain biker needs to shift weight constantly according to the terrain-back on a downhill, forward on a climb.

"One other lesson I teach is: look where you want to go," Phelan says. "That's a good one for life too."

Dreamride on slickrock

After you've been bitten by the mountain-biking bug, you're going to want to ride in Moab. This small town in southeastern Utah is the country's premier mountain-biking destination.

I learned a ton about biking, as well as about the area, during three days of riding with Lee Bridgers and Kenneth Moody from Dreamride, which leads biking clinics and tours. I arrived with some experience, but I hadn't ridden since the previous summer. And I'd never tested my skills on slickrock-- Moab's famous sandstone that grips a bike's tires as thoroughly as desert gumbo clumps after a rain, providing amazing traction so you can ride up inclines you'd otherwise slide down.

We started with a lesson in a city park, riding over curbs (made much easier by the plush full-suspension rental bike) and practicing riding with our weight way back for greater stability when going downhill. Our first trail ride was north of town, along a dirt road out to some slickrock swells. Bridgers's enthusiastic account of the region's natural history--detailing the different strata of rock and Moab's mining past--kept me distracted, even when I felt tired.

The second day we rode to more challenging slickrock terrain. The two guides stood at the ready, spotting me as I huffed up a short but very steep climb. Having spotters gave me the courage to try routes that were more difficult than I'd normally attempt.

From the trail we had great views of Monitor and Merrimac, hulking buttes in the distance named for the Civil War ships. During the breathtaking descent back, I found myself riding clown ledges I wouldn't have gone anywhere near just two days earlier.

After the third day, there wasn't a mountain I couldn't tackle--even though was almost too tired to move.

On our final morning in town, a fellow in a bike shirt caught my eye. "Are you a biker?" he asked, holding out the trail map he'd been puzzling over.

"Yes," I replied, with a level of confidence that surprised me, "I am."

RELATED ARTICLE: Mountain bike schools

Here are some of the West's best schools. For great places to ride, visit www.sunset.com.

ASPEN, CO. Timberline Mountain Bike School. Beginner to advanced classes. Jun-Sep. From $150 per half-day for two people. (800) 842-2453 or www.timberlinebike.com.

FAIRFAX, CA. Women's Mountain Bike & Tea Society (WOMBATS).

One-day skills clinics led by former national champion mountain-biker Jacquie Phelan. From $100 a day. (415) 459-0980 or www.wombats.org.

MOAB, UT. Dreamride. From $595 for a three-day vacation package including a one-day skills clinic (lodging not included). 59 E. Center St.; (435) 259-6419 or  www.dreamride.com.

SEATTLE. Singletrack Ranch.

Multiday skills clinics taught by ultramarathon mountain-bike racer John Stamstad. From $925 for three days (lodging included). (888) 310-1212 or www.singletrackranch.com.

WEST REDDING, CT. Dirt Camp.

One-day and multiday classes. Through mid-Oct. From $90 a day. (800) 711-3478 or www.dirtcamp.com.
Choices can be overwhelming when you set out to buy a mountain bike. Don't get talked into buying more than you need. Start with the basics: an aluminum- or steel-frame bicycle with wide, knobby tires and lots of gears--27 is good.

A. Bike. Bikes are made from aluminum, steel, carbon fiber, or titanium. Aluminum is the most popular material. Titanium and carbon fiber make for strong, lightweight frames, but they are pricey. Don't buy a hybrid bicycle--they aren't really made for off-road riding. Good fit is key: Make sure the salesperson sizes you. In general, you want two inches of clearance between your body and the bike when you are standing astride it. Prices for a decent bike start at $600; you can get an excellent bike for less than $1000.

B. Suspension. Most mountain bikes have front suspension--shocks that cushion front wheel bumps. Many upscale bikes have front and rear, or full, suspension for a cushier ride. But for a first mountain bike, that isn't necessary-and it usually costs a lot.

C. Shoes. Shoes should have stiff, flat soles--running shoes won't work, but lightweight hiking shoes can. It's important that your shoes are comfortable, can get dirty, and aren't too heavy. Eventually you'll want to get special shoes to attach to clipless pedals, which can improve efficiency. ("Clipless" is a misleading term; the shoes clip directly to the pedal.) But avoid them until you're very comfortable on the trail, because they can be tricky to get out of at first. Bike shoes cost about $80.

D. Helmet. Fit is important: Sizes or adjustable pads help to ensure that the helmet is snug on your crown. The chin strap should not gap. Helmets cost from $50 to $200; the more expensive ones are lighter and have better ventilation.

E. Shorts. No matter how silly you feel, get padded shorts. They cost about $60, and you will appreciate every penny you paid after an hour of riding. If you're not into skintight fashion, baggier padded shorts are available. (And no, nothing should come between you and the shorts.)

Moab is a must

The southeastern Utah town of Moab is the place to get hooked on mountain biking. The region's slickrock, sandstone from long-gone seabeds, is a moonscape of crinkles and undulations that make for exhilarating riding.

The Slickrock Bike Trail is Moab's most famous ride--but it's an expert-level route, not something to try when you're starting out, Even the 2 1/4-mile practice loop is hard. For newcomers, the best way to experience Moab's trails is on a guided ride with one of the town's many outfitters. A guide can steer you to trails suitable for your skill level, keep you on the route (it can be hard to find trail markers), and make sure you don't wander off-trail and damage the desert ecosystem.

Essentials

Moab lies 235 miles southeast of Salt Lake City and 350 miles west of Denver. Nearest air service is through Grand Junction, Colorado, 110 miles to the east.

For area information, contact the Moab information Center (Center and Main Streets; 800/635-6622 or www.discovermoab.com).
Dreamride. (See also "Mountain bike schools," page 42.) Guided rides from $395 for three days. Full-suspension bike rentals from $75 a day. 59 E Center St.; (435) 259-6419 or www.dreamride.com.

Moab Cyclery & Kaibab Outfitters. Van support available. Front-suspension bikes from $35 a day; full-suspension from $40. Guided rides from $75 for a half-day 391 S. Main St.; (435) 259-7423 or www.moabcyclery.com.

Poison Spider Bikes. Rentals from $32 a day for front-suspension and $38 a day for full-suspension. 497 N. Main; (800) 635-1792.

Rim Tours. Guided rides from $60 a day 1233 S. Hwy 191; (800) 626-7335 or www.rimtours.com.

Western Spirit Cycling. Guided rides around Moab and other parts of Utah, as well as in other states. 478 Mill Creek Dr.; (800) 845-2453 or www.westernspirit.com.

Dining

Center Cafe. Elegant but casual. 60 North 100 West; (435) 259-4295.

Desert Bistro, Innovative fare, including pasta and wild game. 92 E. Center; (435) 259-0756.

EklectiCafe. Casual breakfast and lunch; vegetarian options, 352 N. Main; (435) 259-6896.

Jailhouse Cafe. Breakfast only, including ginger pancakes, on the site of Moab's former jailhouse. 101 N. Main; (435) 259-3900.

Lodging

Gonzo Inn. Large rooms in downtown Moab; caters to bikers. From $125. 100 West 200 South; (800) 791-4044.

Sorrel River Ranch Resort. Luxury cabins with great views on the Colorado River; horse rentals. From $199. 17 miles northeast of Moab off State 128; (877)359-2715 or www.sorrelriver.com.

COPYRIGHT Sunset Publishing Corp.
COPYRIGHT Gale Group

Mountain man: Mammoth Mountain inspired Davey McCoy's monumental outdoor life. Now Davey inspires you
Men's Fitness by Tyler Gray

MANINE-YEAR-OLD DAVEY McCOY IS STANDING ON A corner in Bishop, Calif.--one of the rare times he is still. He's waiting for legendary outdoors man Dave McCoy--Grandpa, to Davey--to scoop him up in his blue Dodge Challenger with the white interior and take him away to the mountain for the weekend. He may be just a boy, but already he gets that his grandfather built Mammoth Mountain ski resort with his bare hands. On weekends the young Davey helps dig holes and bury support beams for ski lifts. He rakes the trails that will become Mammoth's biking, paths. He helps his grandpa fix machinery. It for fun for him, not a chore, and it him outdoors. So when sees the bronze monument to his grandpa go up in the center of the mountain village, and he hears the people who make a living on Mammoth call it "Dave's Mountain," it makes him feel kind of like he owns it too.

Maybe that's why he never wants to leave, begging to stay longer weekend after weekend in year after year--until until finally, nearly a decade later, he gets his wish and moves into mountain lodge. But nothing comes for free in the McCoy household. To earn his keep--and to keep up with his grandpa--Davey masters dozens of trades. He becomes an avid skier, motocross rider, cyclist, runner, climber, hiker ... the list goes on and on. "If there's an outdoor sport. I'll do it" Davey says now. We recently asked him to share with MF a few typical days in the outdoor life he learned from his grandpa. He answered with a challenge: Strap on skis, a motorcross helmet trail-running shoes, and biking gear and try to keep up. Of course, we did, flirting with the edges of red-rock cliffs on motorcycles, racing tumbleweeds on foot and bike, and slicing on skis into an endless base of constantly falling Mammoth snow. We spent every waking moment in the shadow of the mountain. And as we captured manage of McCoy in his element, we started to see what it means to inherit the fire for adventure and the legacy of the outdoors.

Biking

On the open roads of California's High Sierra, there's often nothing for miles but dusty desert, blacktop, and the hiss of wind. "Getting on the bike gives me time to do nothing but think," Davey says. "When I'm out there, I learn a lot about who I am. I guess you'd call it my church." But it wasn't churchlike behavior that spurred Davey to start building Mammoths labyrinth of biking trails--which now stretches 85 miles and draws thousands of visitors. "I'd swiped one of my grandpa's vans to go mountain biking," McCoy remembers. "When I got back, I knew he'd be waiting for me, so I told him I wanted to build a course. He wasn't angry. He didn't yell. He just handed me a rake and shovel and told me to get to work. And anytime that summer the grade of the trail came out too high, he made me redo it," McCoy laughs. "It wasn't punishment. He wanted my grandma to be able to ride, too."

Of all the sports he's had a chance to try, skiing is McCoy's first love. He never competed, though his grandpa coached many Olympians. Yet the quest for the gold is in his blood--his aunt Penny won a bronze medal for the U.S. Olympic Ski Team. Competitive skiing, he says, never held the same appeal for him, however. "I never liked chasing sticks or being told where to turn," Davey says. He was more into hiking and skiing the backcountry--untamed peaks and unexplored faces--for no other reason than to push his own limits. "I hike to the top of something that might go 14,000 feet up. It's an amazing feeling. It's a sense of challenging yourself with nature," he says. "I hear people talk about going out to 'conquer the mountain." Conquering is not real. The mountain is more powerful than we could ever be. I have a great deal of respect for its power. If you spend time outdoors, if you hike or climb or ski, you've got to respect the power of nature."

A Running

Davey's interest in trail running started, simply enough, with running up and down Mammoth Mountain helping his grandpa. Now Davey runs in the summer to explore routes for winter backcountry skiing. Over Bishop Creek. Past the Twin Lakes in Mammoth. Out through Duck Pass. "By now, the running trails are pretty familiar to me," Davey says, "but I'm always finding something new--a new place to explore, a path I want to ski in the winter." Constant outdoor activity (and maybe genetics) has helped McCoy, now 42, preserve his boyish looks and incredible physique. But when it comes to the outdoors, nothing he does, he says, is for vanity. "Some people go to the gym so they can look a certain way, and that's fine. But for me, biking, skiing, climbing, and living outdoors in general are about the freedom. I just love doing it. I love it now, and still want to be able to do it when I'm my grandfather's age."

Dave McCoy is waiting on his grandson. He's in dirty pads, bright motorcycle pants, and a helmet that hides his face. He's revving his Honda 250, anxious to hit the reddish-brown, dusty course in the front yard of the McCoy ranch house. The plastic plate on the side of Dave's bike bears the number 89--his age. (He's since turned 90.)
"In 1937, he used his Harley for collateral on his first $80 loan." With that money, Dave McCoy secured a yearly lease from the U.S. Forest Service to run a ski operation on the mountain. Today, that $80 investment has turned into a ski resort with 135 trails and 35 lifts that's worth millions. But as impossible as it may seem to an outsider, it's the mountain itself--not the bills it could pay or the cars and property it could buy--that matters most to the McCoys. Not that they stand still long enough to dwell on that. They're already taking off, spewing gravel and dust into the snowcapped Sierra scene behind them. Dave is leading. But Davey, as always, is right on his heels.

Bike Idaho: top 5
Sunset by Ted Alan Stedman

Move over, Moab. Back off, Boulder. Look out, Lake Tahoe. When it comes to mountain biking, these fabled destinations are beginning to share the spotlight with southwest Idaho. The region has rolled onto the scene as one of the West's best (and least crowded) pedal-pushing playgrounds, thanks in part to ambitious trail-building and funding initiatives spawned in both the public and private sectors. From the high, dry foothills of Boise north to the cool mountain and lake country surrounding McCall, you'll find 70-plus maintained, documented trails. Good resources are Mountain Biking in Boise (2002) and Mountain Biking in McCall (2003; $13 each; www.stevestuebner.com or 208/484-0295). The sampling below offers a variety of terrains for all abilities.
WHERE GET THERE PAYOFF

1 Brundage Mountain Resort From McCall, Take advantage of
In the summer, this 1,340- drive 4 miles the chairlifts to
acre alpine ski area north on State forgo uphill
transforms into a mountain- 55 to Goose climbs and
bike mecca offering 1,800 feet Lake Rd., turn concentrate on
of vertical descent--all right, and descent skills,
served by chairlifts. continue 4 miles including single-
to Brundage track trails
Mountain Ski Area specially
on the right. designed for
bikes. Two
standouts:
narrow, technical
Zorro Trail and
wide, single-
track Elk Trail.

2 Fort Boise Park Ride or drive to Part of the
Boise's Ridge to Rivers Trail the junction of Military Reserve
System contains a network Reserve and Fort Loop, the ride
of all-abilities trails plying Streets at Fort along Cotton-wood
the sprawling protected Boise Park; turn Creek is a shady,
open space adjacent to the north on Reserve, sinewy single-
city's northern foothills. continue to track through
Mountain Cove stands of
Rd., and turn cottonwoods and
left to reach the willows, plus an
public lot where easy, fun water
the trails begin. crossing. After a
short uphill
climb, stop for
the view of
Boise.

3 Ponderosa State Park From State 55 and Wide trails and
Ride from McCall to enjoy Railroad Ave. near single-track bike
scenic trails through large downtown McCall, routes ply the
stands of ponderosa pines follow signs north 1,550-acre park.
and shaded green corridors for approximately Scenic stops let
on a hilly peninsula jutting 2 miles to you take in lake
into Payette Lake. Ponderosa State views; stay alert
Park. for some of the
112 bird species
that have been
identified here.
Camp beneath
majestic
ponderosa pine
trees.

4 Ruby Meadows--Loon Lake Loop From the west side At Loon Lake,
This high-country ride is of McCall, take pause to soak
considered an Idaho classic: Warren Wagon Rd., in the mountain
Mostly single-stack roller- north 28 miles to beauty and to
coaster trails wind through the Ruby Meadows listen for the
spruce forests and over turnoff on the call of the loon.
bridges and catwalks. right. For extra credit,
read the sign
about a World War
II bomber crash
on the lake's
south end, then
hike to find the
site in the
brush.

5 Tamarack Resort From State 55 at Trails for a wide
The prime bike-trail system Donnelly, head range of skill
at this new ski and summer west on Roseberry levels and a
resort has it all--including Rd., turn left on lift-service
a chairlift option to access Norwood Rd., turn option make this
forested trails, colorful right on Tamarack single-track
meadows, and special-terrain Falls Rd., then system perfect
parks. left again on West for riders of all
Mountain Rd.; capabilities.
continue 3 miles Classic cross-
to the resort. country rides,
bomber downhills,
banked single-
track, and a
terrain area
offer variety.

WHERE INFO REFRESH

1 Brundage Mountain Resort LENGTH: Trails up to 7 Grab pizza,
In the summer, this 1,340- miles. DIFFICULTY: beer, soft
acre alpine ski area Intermediate to drinks, and
transforms into a mountain- advanced. CONTACT: various
bike mecca offering 1,800 feet Brundage Mountain munchies
of vertical descent--all Resort (10-5 from the ski
served by chairlifts. Fri-Sun, Jul 1-Sep area's snack
5; $20 all-day lift bar, then
ticket; relax on the
www.brundage.com grassy
or 800/888-7544). amphitheater
lawn with
other
mountain
bikers. $;
10-5 daily.

2 Fort Boise Park LENGTH: 1-mile loop. Post-ride
Boise's Ridge to Rivers Trail DIFFICULTY: Easy. celebrations
System contains a network CONTACT: Ridge to are a
of all-abilities trails plying Rivers tradition on
the sprawling protected (www.ridgetorivers.org the patio at
open space adjacent to the or 208/384-4060). Lucky 13
city's northern foothills. Pizza, in
the city's
stylish Hyde
Park
Historic
District.
$$; lunch
and dinner
daily 1602
N. 13th St.,
Boise; 208/
344-6967.

3 Ponderosa State Park LENGTH: Trails up to An expansive
Ride from McCall to enjoy 3.5 miles. DIFFICULTY: deck
scenic trails through large Moderate to difficult. overlooking
stands of ponderosa pines CONTACT: Ponderosa Payette Lake
and shaded green corridors State Part makes the
on a hilly peninsula jutting (www.idahoparks.org/ McCall
into Payette Lake. parks/ponderosa.html Brewing
or 208/634-2164). Company a
good stop
for local
brews and
pub fare.
$$; lunch
and dinner
daily. 807
N. Third
St., McCall;
208/263-
9958.

4 Ruby Meadows--Loon Lake Loop LENGTH: 21-mile loop. Get picnic
This high-country ride is DIFFICULTY: Moderate. provisions
considered an Idaho classic: CONTACT: Payette at Maverik
Mostly single-stack roller- National Forest, Country
coaster trails wind through McCall Ranger District Store,
spruce forests and over (www.fs.fed.us/r4/ popular for
bridges and catwalks. payette or 208/634- its hoagie
0400). sandwiches
and
freshbaked
breads. 622
N. Third
St., McCall;
208/634-
7284.

5 Tamarack resort LENGTH: Trails up to At the
The prime bike-trail system 15 miles. DIFFICULTY: resort's
at this new ski and summer All levels. CONTACT: Discovery
resort has it all--including Tamarack Resort (lift Village, the
a chairlift option to access open 10-5 Fri-Sun, $20 Canoe Grill
forested trails, colorful all-day lift ticket, serves up
meadows, and special-terrain trails open daily, $6, delicious
parks. through Oct 1; www.tama made-to-
rackidaho.com, 877/826- order
7376, or 208/325-1000). lunches,
including
stirfries,
pizzas, and
grill fare.
$; breadfast
and lunch
daily.
COPYRIGHT Sunset Publishing Corp.
COPYRIGHT Gale Group